Tuesday, August 17, 2010

Squash Frittata

My friend Sara said recently that part of eating locally and seasonally is that we have to get sick of some things before their season is over and there’s no way around that.  She is a farmer and a vegetarian, and I imagine this is especially true for her but it ought to be true for all of us. 

Everything has a price and I suppose the price of that first tender sweet summer squash eaten straight off the vine* is that months later I will gaze at that too-prolific vine with dismay and wonder whether it will ever stop growing and fruiting. 

It will. At first frost if not sooner, I’ll be chopping up those withered vines and tossing them in the compost.  By January I’ll be digging through the freezer for frozen squash pulp** and thinking fondly of summer’s diced squash with lemon vinaigrette, squash gratins, grilled squash, squash fritters, and squash frittatas.  

This last  is currently my favorite way to cook squash. I made one for breakfast this morning that turned out especially well, so I thought I’d share it in case any of you are also faced with too much squash.

Squash Frittata with Sage and Lemon
to serve 4-6

2 medium summer squash
1 medium onion, diced
2T each butter and olive oil
1-3T chopped fresh sage
6 eggs
finely grated zest of 1-2 lemons
1/3 cup sour cream or creme fraiche
salt and pepper
1/2-1 cup asiago or parmesan, or a combination of the two, grated

julienne the squash, sprinkle with a teaspoon of salt and drain in a colander for half an hour, then squeeze the liquid from the squash (this will prevent the frittata from ‘weeping’)

warm the butter and olive oil in a 10” oven-safe skillet over a medium-high flame

saute the squash for a minute or so, then add the onion and continue to saute until veggies are lightly golden and tender, then stir in the sage and cook another minute

meanwhile, thoroughly whisk  the egg, lemon zest, sour cream or creme fraiche, and salt and pepper to taste

reduce heat slightly, add the egg- mixture, stir lightly just to mix in veggies, then cook about 5 minutes -- if you’ve never done a frittata, what you want is for the bottom to be golden and to cook the thing about halfway through

sprinkle the cheese on top and pop the pan under the broiler for a few minutes until puffy and golden on top

cut into wedges for serving

Obviously you can vary this pretty endlessly -- if I’m having guests, I make a tomato coulis to serve on top and a salad on the side.  You can of course use all kinds of vegetable, meat, and seasoning combinations and the only rule is to not over-stuff the frittata and to think carefully about cooking times.  Some variations I like:

~ swap out the yellow squash for zucchini, use rosemary instead of sage, add some chopped tomatoes (Sara’s for preference, but if you’re not one us lucky few, make do with any locally-grown variety you fancy) and use cheddar in place of asiago/parmesan

~ use chopped and lightly steamed spinach for the veg, season with a few grinds of nutmeg, and top with gruyere

~ arrange steamed broccoli and strips of roasted red peppers prettily around the frittata after pouring the egg mixture into the pan, sprinkle with dried or fresh oregano and thyme, and top with crumbled feta just before broiling

* I really do eat the first squash straight off the vine, without cutting it first.  It’s sort of a ritualistic (and possibly rather odd) practice in celebration of first fruits.  II also read something once on a fruitarian or raw-foodist site about how much better it is to eat ‘living’ fruits though I must say it sounds a little creepy when I think about it in those terms.
** To freeze squash pulp, you’ll need a squash that is overgrown enough that you wouldn’t want to eat it raw or even cooked necessarily, but not so overgrown that it is strictly compost or animal food.  Halve the thing lengthwise, scoop out the seeds (these can be washed and either roasted and eaten or saved for planting), then grate on the coarsest holes of a box grater. I salt, rinse, and drain before freezing, but I bet you could skip this step.  In any case, you’ll find that it reduces into a mild-flavored mush that can be used in quick breads as well as soups, or even baby food if you’re lucky enough to have one of those little critters about the house.


Tracy said...

Hi Megan, I found your blog via Baltimore Food Makers. Your squash frittata looks lovely :)

Anonymous said...

Amazing. I'm bookmarking so that I can make it. Thanks for the share. :)